The following are some basis of how i train. I will add more as i come up with it.
I always start a dog with CLICKERS and TREATS and then will often replace it with a word like "GOOD!" or "YES"
If your dog is very toy driven, throwing a ball/frisbee can also be a reward. Other rewards include access to the environment.. ex. call a dog to come before you take it off a leash, get it to sit before you open the door.. etc.
If your dog is very toy driven, throwing a ball/frisbee can also be a reward. Other rewards include access to the environment.. ex. call a dog to come before you take it off a leash, get it to sit before you open the door.. etc.
Why i use clickers?
I love seeing this "AH! i get it!" momment in dogs: Whenever you have something they want treat/food they will offer sit, or shake a paw.. before you ask for it because that is all they know... but as they progress, the dogs look at you and wait for that "command" to offer a behaviour.. and that is when you know they have passed the first lession -> That human language has a meaning.
Anyways, there's so much stuff about clickers on the net, i dont' think i really need to explain further.. but here is a good video i found on youtube that explains it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wv1uvvqaSw
For example, when teaching "play-dead" don't PUSH the dog on its back, rather use a LURE to guide it into a position you want it to be in.
Leash jerks for teaching "leave it", or pushing the their rump down to teach "sit" are outdated methods in teaching a dog.. When you physically put the dog in the position you want it in, the dog is not learning to solve problems for itself.
3. Challenge the dog! If your dog is staying.. dont' think it will stay EVERYWHERE. practice outside, in different locations and different distractions! At the same time, dont' set your dog up for failure if you cannot ensure it can succeed. Slowly increase the desirability of the distraction, and reward like hell when your dog does the right thing!
4. Be Smarter than the dog. If the dog doesn't progress any further to a desired behaviour after a session or a few tries.. CHANGE YOUR METHODS. Something is wrong, and you need to drop the session and think about more creative ways to teach it.There is nothing more fustrating when someone explains something to you, but that person doesn't rephrase or explain it another way and just keeps explaining the same darn thing!! Take a few days off to think about another approach to train it or consult other positive-reinforcement trainers.
This rule also means don't be outsmarted by your dog! If your dog is not coming to you when you call or ignores you.. you have been outsmarted! A dog that outsmarts you, is a dog that self-rewards itself: You must prevent this. Brain wash your dog in thinking you control and allocate all the rewards (even of when to chase the squirrel on the lawn)
This rule also means don't be outsmarted by your dog! If your dog is not coming to you when you call or ignores you.. you have been outsmarted! A dog that outsmarts you, is a dog that self-rewards itself: You must prevent this. Brain wash your dog in thinking you control and allocate all the rewards (even of when to chase the squirrel on the lawn)
5. Trick training is always positive Training should be FUN for the dog. Reward often, and don't let the dog get fustrated. If you're teaching a trick.. there is no room for "NO!" You can't scold a dog for not knowing and giving the wrong behaviour. Scolding them will result in them fearful in offering behaviours. If your dog is jumping up on you or biting the leash.. these are great opportunities to train "up-up" or "go get the leash!"
Sometimes an inappropriate behaviour can be shaped to cute/useful trick! So rather than saying "NO!" you could give it a command so the behaviour doesn't go extinct.. Then to prevent the the behaviours during innapropriate times, teach the dog how you would rather it behave.